Chicago Magazine

Jul 21, 2009

Billionaire's Roe

Where to find caviar that really pops

Imported sturgeon roe are now nearly impossible to come by, so most Chicago fish retailers stock high-quality domestics in a range of prices. The FishGuy Market carries a sustainably wild-caught Illinois sturgeon caviar with good pop and nutty, clean flavor, reasonably priced at around $30 an ounce. Dirk Fucik at Dirk’s Fish and Gourmet Shop recommends a farm-raised white sturgeon from California, tasty but pricier at $76 an ounce. For something novel, Collins Caviar, a mother-daughter operation that has moved from Chicago to Michigan City, Indiana, offers flavor-infused and smoked domestic caviar including “Caviar Citron” spiked with Absolut Citron vodka; available at Binny’s Beverage Depot (213 W. Grand Ave.; 312-332-0012) or at And finally, for import purists, New York–based Paramount Caviar—which supplies the eggs for Tru’s legendary Caviar Staircase—will sell you an ounce of wild-caught Iranian golden osetra for $165.
–K. C.